Green96 wrote:Honestly, if your worried about beating 5.0 mustangs I would look to bigger apponents with nitrous. They really aren't very impressive for having v8's and being as light as they are. Alot of them struggled to get out of the 15's even with a few bolt ons. Some of the notchbacks were impressive because they were lighter but still not overly impressive. I'm not dissing them at all because i have friends with heavily modded 5.0's and they are very very fast but even they agreed that getting consistent 14's stock was a challenge. No offense to biggs but that is the slowest 2.4 nitrous time i have ever seen. Now he is a vert which are significantly heavier and bad track conditions can really bring down a time but there are several guys with 2.4's running bottom 14's and a few have hit high 13's with 75 shots and bolt ons. Dan, with your mods and a 75 shot, I see no reason why you couldn't run those times either. Make sure it is set up properly and have fun. I would suggest getting a wideband though.
5lick50 wrote:OK one more question about the window switch.lol. So for my setup, if I want to buy/use a window switch, do I need a "tack adapter" or any other componant other than the switch itself?? I just want to get this clear as it seems confusing and i'm in a hurry to buy one online. The MSD 8969 is very expensive but I was also looking at this one(link). I promise this will be the end of my questions...for now PLease help me out as I need to order parts asap. Thanks guys.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RPM-Window-Switch-8969-With-TPS-Nitrous-Oxide-system_W0QQitemZ330322611432QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item330322611432&_tr ksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
5lick50 wrote:OK one more question about the window switch.lol. So for my setup, if I want to buy/use a window switch, do I need a "tack adapter" or any other componant other than the switch itself?? I just want to get this clear as it seems confusing and i'm in a hurry to buy one online. The MSD 8969 is very expensive but I was also looking at this one(link). I promise this will be the end of my questions...for now PLease help me out as I need to order parts asap. Thanks guys.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RPM-Window-Switch-8969-With-TPS-Nitrous-Oxide-system_W0QQitemZ330322611432QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item330322611432&_tr ksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
BIGGSZ24 wrote:Green96 wrote:Honestly, if your worried about beating 5.0 mustangs I would look to bigger apponents with nitrous. They really aren't very impressive for having v8's and being as light as they are. Alot of them struggled to get out of the 15's even with a few bolt ons. Some of the notchbacks were impressive because they were lighter but still not overly impressive. I'm not dissing them at all because i have friends with heavily modded 5.0's and they are very very fast but even they agreed that getting consistent 14's stock was a challenge. No offense to biggs but that is the slowest 2.4 nitrous time i have ever seen. Now he is a vert which are significantly heavier and bad track conditions can really bring down a time but there are several guys with 2.4's running bottom 14's and a few have hit high 13's with 75 shots and bolt ons. Dan, with your mods and a 75 shot, I see no reason why you couldn't run those times either. Make sure it is set up properly and have fun. I would suggest getting a wideband though.
And actually Nitro ran low 13's with a few things like drag radials and a 100 shot.I agree on my times as slow but for you not knowing what the track situation was and my cars situation is a little unfair.I said before previously that my tir/rim combo was not right for the track,I beleive I was puddlind with using the HO manifold,and with the size jets I was running,a .032 N2o and a .020 fuel,many on here have said that equated to more like a 40 shot.I was going by what Edelbrock's site said about my kit,which is that a .032n2o and a .026 fuel was an 80 shot.Also you know that a 75hp shot will not give you an EXACT 75 hp right?
Dan,first,the nozzle you l lost is prolly stuck in your manifold,second,take advice here with a grain of salt,don't buy into what EVERY person says here.Go run and post up times,I do believe you won't run any faster than a 14.8-14.9 but anyways have fun doing it. and yes they make soft plume nozzles,just look to see if it has one opening and not two.
Green96 wrote:BIGGSZ24 wrote:Green96 wrote:Honestly, if your worried about beating 5.0 mustangs I would look to bigger apponents with nitrous. They really aren't very impressive for having v8's and being as light as they are. Alot of them struggled to get out of the 15's even with a few bolt ons. Some of the notchbacks were impressive because they were lighter but still not overly impressive. I'm not dissing them at all because i have friends with heavily modded 5.0's and they are very very fast but even they agreed that getting consistent 14's stock was a challenge. No offense to biggs but that is the slowest 2.4 nitrous time i have ever seen. Now he is a vert which are significantly heavier and bad track conditions can really bring down a time but there are several guys with 2.4's running bottom 14's and a few have hit high 13's with 75 shots and bolt ons. Dan, with your mods and a 75 shot, I see no reason why you couldn't run those times either. Make sure it is set up properly and have fun. I would suggest getting a wideband though.
And actually Nitro ran low 13's with a few things like drag radials and a 100 shot.I agree on my times as slow but for you not knowing what the track situation was and my cars situation is a little unfair.I said before previously that my tir/rim combo was not right for the track,I beleive I was puddlind with using the HO manifold,and with the size jets I was running,a .032 N2o and a .020 fuel,many on here have said that equated to more like a 40 shot.I was going by what Edelbrock's site said about my kit,which is that a .032n2o and a .026 fuel was an 80 shot.Also you know that a 75hp shot will not give you an EXACT 75 hp right?
Dan,first,the nozzle you l lost is prolly stuck in your manifold,second,take advice here with a grain of salt,don't buy into what EVERY person says here.Go run and post up times,I do believe you won't run any faster than a 14.8-14.9 but anyways have fun doing it. and yes they make soft plume nozzles,just look to see if it has one opening and not two.
wet 75 shot= 75 whp
dry 75 shot= 75 fwhp
You may have been running a smaller shot than what you thought but saying he won't run faster than a 14.8 may be false. This is bench racing which i don't like but lets say you both have the same crappy track conditions. Take your 15.2 and take off the 300 lbs you give up for the vert. That's a 14.8 right there with the same 60'. Now he also has more mods than you with a header, ported throttle body, some exhaust work and so on. Even in the same bad track conditions you had I would still expect better than a 14.5 for him if he can drive half way decent. You never know what will happen in reality so this is all speculation. Dan, go out there have fun and tell us what you get. I think you'll be surprised. Just remember the launch is the most important part of drag racing.
BIGGSZ24 wrote:This is a brand new in the box MSD Digital RPM Window Switch.
M46-8969
Look no further MSD's new Digital RPM Window Switch will do it all! This new Switch will accept an input rpm signal from a coil negative terminal (for stock ignitions), a tach output from an ignition control, an ECU tach output or even a 5 volt tach signal. Another great feature is that no rpm modules are needed! The rpm activation points are programmed by simply scrolling through the LED display to your desired rpm amounts. The switch has two outputs; one normally open, the other is normally closed. It can be programmed from 200 rpm to 15,000 rpm in 100 rpm increments. It can be used with an input voltage of 9 - 18 volts.
Features
# Activate a circuit's On and Off point at your desired rpm.
# Program the rpm and cylinder selection through the bright LED display.
# Accepts an rpm signal from a 5 volt tach signal, coil negative, tach output of an ignition or through an ECU.
# Ideal to control a shot of nitrous on nearly any engine combination.
Answer your question?