Let's hope man. I'm so sick of these little glitches.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Code came back today. Sucks I was really thinking I had it figured out. Anyway, still haven't swapped out the plugs so I'm hoping that's what the issue is. It happened right after start up again so I still like Jason's theory on the plugs being just a little too cold starting out .
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I know there's 100 threads about this but I'm bringing it up again.. Like mentioned before I'm running
NGK 6510 plugs. The reach for them is listed at .984. I purchased some 1-step colder plugs,
NGK 2667 from another member but I see that the reach for them is only listed at .750. I also notice that they're listed (by summit) as the same heat range, 7. Is it a good idea to use these 2667's or should I use
NGK 6509's with .984 reach and 1 step warmer?
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I use whatever i have in my profile...i think its the 6509. No problems, runs good. Go witht those, I ordered mine off Amazon
Did you gap them or no? I have 4 of those plugs now. I know they say not to gap them because of the electrode but the gap is a little big from ngk on those specific plugs. Seems like the 3787 plugs are the best since they come gapped at 32 and one step colder.
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Ya i have them at .036 ... The one guy on here who worked for a spark plug plant or ngk said to not move the strap more than .008. I think they come at .042 or .044 so it's ok to move it that far
I have the 3787's as well
Philly D wrote:I have the 3787's as well
No problems I'm assuming?
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I'm confused...I thought you were running 6510's and were swapping to 6509's?
Luke C wrote:I'm confused...I thought you were running 6510's and were swapping to 6509's?
Yes sir you are correct, I mixed those up. Anyway, it didnt fix the problem but after that I replaced the whole coil pack/icm assembly with an extra I had lying around. As soon as I started the car up it turned the cel off. I've always had to clear the codes to get rid of it before. Cleared the codes anyway and it hasn't been back. Tomorrow will be the real test. I gotta say it could have just been me but it sure felt smoother in the lower rpms.
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Nice, hopefully that was it. When I was n/a a longntime ago that failed for me under warranty
Annnd it's back. Guess I need to just roll the car off of a cliff.
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Lol, that sucks man. Is it from the tune? Or was this happening on the GM Reflash too? (you were running that right?)
Didn't have any trouble with it on the reflash. I didn't have any trouble with a custom tune on the stock setup either though. This only started happening when I added the bigger injectors, afpr, and 3.1 pulley.
Sparky may be onto something. With the ridiculous fuel pressure I'm running it's probably demanding an equally ridiculous injector pulse width in terms of it being almost too tiny to accommodate with a 42# injector.
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I would agree with you. Really the only variables that changed are injectors and afpr. Next step may be to get 60 lbers and return back to stock fuel pressure
Luke C wrote:I would agree with you. Really the only variables that changed are injectors and afpr. Next step may be to get 60 lbers and return back to stock fuel pressure
So the problem there is Oldskool just informed me that guys with 60s have had this issue on stock pressure.
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Hence the rolling off of a cliff notion
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Y3llowCav wrote:Hence the rolling off of a cliff notion
Well if you don't figure this out before the next time you come down to PA, when you do we'll have to get together and really go through all the wiring and see if there is something going on there.
Do you have a noid light to test the injectors? I can also get you the pin out for at the pcm, you could probe the injector wires for continuity, as well as the trigger from the ICM.
EVILution (KGMs FrankenCav) wrote:Y3llowCav wrote:Hence the rolling off of a cliff notion
Well if you don't figure this out before the next time you come down to PA, when you do we'll have to get together and really go through all the wiring and see if there is something going on there.
Do you have a noid light to test the injectors? I can also get you the pin out for at the pcm, you could probe the injector wires for continuity, as well as the trigger from the ICM.
I should be able to borrow the noid light from the garage. Next time I'm home we will put that #$&!@ on the lift and tear it apart from top to bottom. If you do have the pinout that would be helpful. Tim and I can check that here.
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Luke C wrote:Any updates?
Thanks for asking. Still having problems. Next time I'm in pa I'll be tearing the harness apart. I've thrown all the hardware at it that I can. Hopefully Oldskool will be available to look into the tune too. Maybe we can work with the injector constant? I'm at a loss at this point..
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I made some progress on this. From what I'm seeing I'm only getting misfires at idle and very rarely at low rpm. As soon as I'm on the throttle it's 100% clean. I took some pics and video with the Torque app.
O2 1x1 V = Oxygen Sensor Bank 1, Sensor 1 Voltage
F/T 1x1 = Fuel Trim Bank 1, Sensor 1
STFT1 = Short Term Fuel Trim
IPW C3 = Injector Pulse Width Cylinder 3
MF C3 Cur = Misfire Count Cylinder 3 (Current)
Idling directly after cold start-up:
Idling, still not at operating temp:
Idling at operating temp:
After a warm restart I decided to check the readings for all 4 cylinders.
Idling after warm start:
Driving with ~25% throttle:
Idling again:
I also made a video with the PID overlay (awesome, I know) so illustrate what I mean:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=KqH9dC5Zfqo
Cliff Notes:
It's not just cylinder #3 like I thought but rather #2, #3, and VERY rarely #4.
It only misfires at idle, anything about 5% throttle totally clean.
3 edits
Edited 3 time(s). Last edited Sunday, June 16, 2013 12:15 PM
"In Oldskool we trust"
Depending on your injector and fuel pressure, that 1.8-1.6ms pulse may be too short. You should be able to get a data sheet from the maker of your injector that will tell you what the mechanical activation/turn on time is and what the flow rate curve is. Was that the LT1 adjustable FPR I saw on your fuel rail on the previous page? Also, have you done a compression test to see where your 2 and 3 cylinders are compared to 1 and 4?