if you get the gm reflash at least get a 2 bar map.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
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wanarace2345 wrote:So I'll keep the 1 bar map and don't get a gm reflash correct? And as you said, use a FMU with HPT.
Your a 96 to be able to use a 2000+ OS for a GM reflash will take a lot of work. If you are up for it, it is better, but your goals do not really require it.
Now the OP has a 2000 car and ECU, so GM reflash is easy for him, and he should go that route.
FU Tuning
Yeah I'm sorry Glowin Cavy, I realized that later on. Then people started responding...my bad. Thanks for the winking smile face instead of one flippin me off lol.
2004 Cavalier Sedan
Does HPT have a way to eliminate the rear O2 signal? Going catless on the exhaust.
12.6 @ 114.6 MPH
Sure, but its for off road use only.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
--Glowin Cavy-- wrote:Does HPT have a way to eliminate the rear O2 signal? Going catless on the exhaust.
Actually no.
You can however turn off the code from coming on.
FU Tuning
Also, There is an auto 97 speed density file & a manual speed density file that I loaded into the HPTuners repository.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
With the GM reflash, you can only use a 2 bar MAP, right? And a cobalt ss one is 2.5, so wouldn't work?
12.6 @ 114.6 MPH
--Glowin Cavy-- wrote:With the GM reflash, you can only use a 2 bar MAP, right? And a cobalt ss one is 2.5, so wouldn't work?
With the GM LD9 reflash you typically use a 2 bar because that is what its setup to use, though it you're tuning you can really use whatever the hell you want. The Eco reflash is locked and designed to use the 2.5 bar tmap from the cobalt ss.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
My plan was to finish breaking in this rebuild, then reflash and use HPT to scale back the injectors (80lb). Then use HPT to further tune everything as needed. If run with the 2.5bar map on the GM reflash, it would run leaner right? Which could be fixed with HPT? Or is the 2.5 just going to complicate everything and I should just stick with a 2 bar?
12.6 @ 114.6 MPH
You would just have to remember that every map value is 1.25 times larger in real life than what the computer thinks. In all honesty that changes nothing in how you tune.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:You would just have to remember that every map value is 1.25 times larger in real life than what the computer thinks. In all honesty that changes nothing in how you tune.
The lost resolution is not worth it......
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
I hope you are either going to scale the injectors back first before breakin, or run a stock injector for break in. the 80's untuned will run really rich.
Why not run the 2 bar map, because the 2.5 bar map will require wiring because the plug is different.
551whp has been made on the LD9 GM reflash with the 2 bar map. I think your gaols will be no problem.
FU Tuning
QWK LN2 (P&P Tuning) wrote:Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:You would just have to remember that every map value is 1.25 times larger in real life than what the computer thinks. In all honesty that changes nothing in how you tune.
The lost resolution is not worth it......
Its worth it if you make more than 15 pounds of boost. And there may be a product coming down the line which will be able to scale map sensor data in order to better utilize the tables built into the computer...
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Its worth it if you make more than 15 pounds of boost.
Not if you care about driveability.... Don't know about you, but my car is not a dyno queen and is actually driven..... With the reflash, the resolution is already cut in half....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
Actually a dyno queen wouldnt really care about seeing the manifold pressure up there, heck a dyno queen thats never street driven could be tuned for a turbo on pure alpha-n and make the same power, but it would have to be re-tuned daily). Seeing it is more for part throttle boost, aka driveability. Though you would have to have a bit of a weird turbo setup to make over 15 psi at less than full throttle while still keeping the turbo in its efficiency range.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
15psi is a great starting point, and more then capable to reach the HP levels he's aiming for (depending on engine and turbo).
No need in over complicating his setup, if its not needed. Start with a 2 bar and GM reflash. Use HPT to dial it in.
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'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
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Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Actually a dyno queen wouldnt really care about seeing the manifold pressure up there, heck a dyno queen thats never street driven could be tuned for a turbo on pure alpha-n and make the same power, but it would have to be re-tuned daily). Seeing it is more for part throttle boost, aka driveability. Though you would have to have a bit of a weird turbo setup to make over 15 psi at less than full throttle while still keeping the turbo in its efficiency range.
Where do you come up with this sh!t? And do you seriously believe it?
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
We need a like button like FB so you can like someones comments.
FU Tuning
Addicted to meth wrote:I hope you are either going to scale the injectors back first before breakin, or run a stock injector for break in. the 80's untuned will run really rich.
Why not run the 2 bar map, because the 2.5 bar map will require wiring because the plug is different.
551whp has been made on the LD9 GM reflash with the 2 bar map. I think your gaols will be no problem.
Break is thus far has been on stock injectors of course. Once my HPT arrives, then I'll put in the 80s and rescale them for the rest of the break in. Prob do the reflash then as well but stay out of boost. At least that way if I accidentally made boost when breaking it in and before its all tuned, at least there will be some extra fuel (with the reflash) 2 bar it is. I asked about the cobalt's map because that can be had for under $50. A 2-bar seems to be closer to $100. In the realm of things though, that extra $50 isn't much.
12.6 @ 114.6 MPH
Back to the O2 sensor and HTP real quick. When you say HTP can stop the code from coming on, do you mean just the CEL won't come on, but it will still see the P code, or would the ECU not even know there is an issue and trigger a P code to be stored? (In other words would still pass emissions)
12.6 @ 114.6 MPH
It will pass plug in emissions test.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
To stop any CELs from being triggered from the second O2 sensor, I would just uncheck all of the DTCs that have anything with "H02S bank 1, sensor 2" in the name, right?
12.6 @ 114.6 MPH