I am thinking about making a new fiberglass box for my 12" RF HE2. I would like to have it sit on the passager side of my trunk flush adgainst the side. It would be simular to my amp rack.
I would only have my single 12" on the side.
I found this
howto FSB on clubrsx. Is this a good way of creating a box? Is it going to hold strong for a while? Any tips or tricks?
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yep, that's the way to do it. <br>
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looks good, sounds like a good idea,
heres a link that should help out a bit. and take a look at
my web site if you do not use the MDF front, this is what it could look like when its done, rapped in carpet, or painted like mine, either way, it will look great. just make sure that the size of the box isn't to small for your sub. <br>
Travis Nobert
Travis Enterprise
Come on down to Evolution Audio in Edmonton Alberta, and I can HOOK YOU UP.
Thanks Travis.
I think I am going to use the MDF front. Just about the strenth of the fiberglass to MDF. The link I had showes him coverign pieces of fleece with resin and placing them on the seem to make the connection. Is that goign to be strong? <br>
the mdf will soak up the resin no problems man....you'll be good to go! <br>
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I made one for my 10" infinity kappa perfect before it was stolen. Basically tape off the area... Soak the tape with resin and let it harden (basically make your mold of the side wall) then attach the mdf with a few screws...
When buying the cloth make sure it will soak up the resin, but its not terribly thick. I bought some thick stuff and it will just eat the resin alife and never get hard enough. Just a tip! <br>
speaker box carpet works great for your fabric. <br>
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Where did you guys get the fiberglass? I looked in Home-Depot and it was fiberglass mat for $5 (8 square feet). Is this a decent price and would two or three be enought for a box simular to the one int he link I posted above.
Thanks
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i went to Canadian Tire, and bought one bag that did about that much, and it worked great, i used fleece, it soaked up the resin like crazy, and the mdf ring is in there like a rock. when i do my other box, for the other sub i got, i will make a step by step how to. and hopefully post it on the site, and maybe it will become a sticky. a guy can hope cant he. it really easy to make the box. mine took me about a month, only working on it for about an hour or so each day. you could probably complete it in about a day if you work from when the sun comes up to supper time. the thing that takes the most time it the waiting for the resin to dry enough for you to put on the next coat of fiberglass. i only put on about 3 coats. and while im holding 50lbs i can stand on the box without it breaking. or even flexing. its very sturdy. i used cloth for the front, cuz its a bit easier to work with at times. plus this way i can get the angel that i wanted. only pub of resin, 2 tubes of hardener. about 1m squared of fabric, and a little bit of bondo, a bunch of paint brushes, about 1.5" works best. 2 boxes of rubber gloves, and a mask. a bunch of beer, and have fun. really easy to do. takes about 2 hrs for the resin to dry if you use that amount they recommend, and about 30 min if you uses 60 drops in 8 oz of resin. <br>
Travis Nobert
Travis Enterprise
Come on down to Evolution Audio in Edmonton Alberta, and I can HOOK YOU UP.
using chop mat is old news...no need for any mat or fabric at all. just reinforce it using a thixatropic(sp) mixture applied to the insde. Cut's down sanding time, and overall build time by a LARGE amount, plus it's easier to do.
i can do a plain 2 woofer box in about 8 hours of labor....from cutting the wood to spraying clear coat. it's easy if you know the tricks
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i just got done building a box for my car, as well as i've worked with this stuff alot and seen some amazing things come from glass so i'll share all that i know that might be helpful in this area and if anyone wants to see i'll show you the box i made.
First get good resin/hardner, dont cheap out on this one its what keeps everything together i use epiglass products, there are others out there depends on the local stores, look for a paint supply or autobody shop and ask them about it, you can also get it from www.uscomposites.com they have a large selection of stuff as well as boxes of brushes for a good price.
If your going to mold then you want some nice heavy mat, usually 1.5 ounce chopped mat works really well, its strong it shapes decently and it builds up fast, lay down about 4 or 5 layers before you even think of removing it from the mold to keep it from moving at all once its out. if your going to use mdf rings fleece is great to create custom shapes, it soaks up resin really fast i used a cup and a half of resin which is actually about 24 oz of resin if i remember correctly, a great idea for bigger subs or high output is to use mdf for all flat areas, sandwhich it with glass and its rock solid
.
follow the directions exactly or the resin will set to fast or not fast enough, all these things play in and make sure to mix your resin extremely well and shake your hardner every time. a company called
http://selectproducts.com/frames.html sells precut mdf rings as well not horrible prices considering how much time it can save, they also sell a ton of other supplies that can make life easier on you,
http://www.knukonceptz.com/ sells alot of wiring supplies as well.
get a big box of gloves, and a big supply of mixing cups and brushes, you will go thru them quickly i've had to change gloves in the middle of glassing because they were covered in resin and chopped mat strand and my fingers were stuck together lol. before you mix your resin make sure that you are 100% ready to glass, have all your matt laid next to you, your brush in hand, your gloves on, your project where you want it and then mix the hardner in otherwise you waste valuable time getting ready to lay it down and time is money with glass.
do not cut the mat it leaves a rough edge thats hard to mix in, sure paint will get rid of it sanding gets rid of it to but its more work for you in the long run, instead rip your mat into chunks about the side of your hand at largest this makes it easier to work with and it will lay nicer as well, if your doing glass over fleece you can take something such as painters tape or masking tape lay a thick layer of glass down and use the tape over the top of it to hold its shape, stretch it as tight as you can get it and you will have far less work to do when your done, invest in sandpaper now you want 36 grit to roughly shape in the box, it takes away material fast so be careful use a sanding block or you'll make valleys and dips in your work, move up to 80 grit once its roughed in, this is nice and aggressive but not over doing it by any means, next once your pretty smooth get yourself some nice rage gold body filler it works great again follow the directions get some plastic spreaders and a nice stable surface such as a peice of cardboard or a mixing board of some sort, it'll take some time to get used to working with this stuff do not lay it on to thick i find it best to take a big glop of the stuff and put it on my starting point, take the spreader and press firmly down and pull across the work it will lay down nice and flat with practice and less thickness means less work later on, remember anything you mess up you can fix pretty easy its just time consuming
, when your done with that process get a couple sheets of 320 grit sand paper to smooth out any rough spots from the 80 grit now spray on some primer use a high fill type primer, i would suggest at least 2 coats of primer, sand it smooth with the 320 you'll know when its done cause it'll be as smooth as glass to the touch, clean it with acetone or paint thinner on a damp rag do not soak the project it will hurt the glass, do this before primer, and after primer, then spray your color if you did it right it'll be perfectly smooth and after a quick buff it'll shine like diamonds
.
J~
i can't tell you all enough...mat is only good for molding to your car!!! you don't have to make your entire enclosure using it!!!
and when your doing molds....spare tire well for example. after you tape off the area, use some 3M spray adhesive to stick your chopmat on BEFORE you apply the resin...makes it a lot easier then trying to brush it on with the resin and what not. <br>
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mat or weave as i prefer to use is useful for lateral support , but for the most part i do as stated above and simply use filler on the inside rather than any mat. Some guys even mix another substance with there fiberglass to add density and thickness to each layer. Also certain body fillers can be fiberglassed over which can be used to build up the outside contours should you have a low spot or anything like that.
raptor...what your probably thinking of is using a milkshake....some resin and hardener mixed with fumed silica or other form of thixotropy powder. you can make the box up to an inch thick from the inside using one or two coats. <br>
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i've always heard that facing the subs to the rear will yeild the best bass unless its a ported box with the ports facing the rear then that would probably make up the difference, sometimes it doesnt matter, the cavies are pretty small so it might not make to much of a difference in these cars but most of the time bass is better facing striaght up in hatch backs or straight back.
J~
I drive with the rear seats up. I also face the sub to the back of the seat (as in the photo). The bass isn't as loud as facing the trunk lid, but my trunk rattles alot less. Yes I know I can plaster it with Dynomat or something like that but prefer not to add any more weight to the trunk. But the bass sounds just as good imo. <br>
i may have to turn mine around then, cause rattle is crazy and i dont have that kind of cash for dynamat right now
anyone else? if i face them front without sealing off the trunk, should i set the sub at the back of the trunk? <br>
yes that is what im thinking of a silica epoxy of sorts. Would i be able to find this filler at my local fiberglass store, kinda curious to use this stuff in my next project. I dont remember seeing it the last time i picked up a gallon of resin.
RapTOR wrote:yes that is what im thinking of a silica epoxy of sorts. Would i be able to find this filler at my local fiberglass store, kinda curious to use this stuff in my next project. I dont remember seeing it the last time i picked up a gallon of resin.
it's not epoxy..it's just silica. like a powder. You mix it with the resin and hardener and it get's all thick and stuff. then you just brush it on the inside of the enclosure
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okay, what i did was i used 3 layers of glass, 3 batches of automotive body filler 40 grit aallllll the way up to 1500 grit sand paper. total price, about $100 CND, and i still have tons of supplies left over. i might have enough to do the other side. i can stand on my box holding 100lbs and it doesn't even move a millimeter. 1 can of primer, one can of high gloss black paint, and one can of clear coat (all arsehole cans) total for paint, about $40. took ma about a month to do, but i only worked on it about 3-4 hrs once or twice a week. work slowed me down. and to spread the bondo around, because of the box i was making i wasn't able to use the conventional plastic or metal scrappers, so i used a rubber spatula for cooking, works great. grand total price for all the materials i had to buy, about $200, but i had to buy everything that
this place said i needed. so i bought it in bulk and got a lot more bondo then i'm ever gona use in my life time, and i got tons of resin and hardener left over, i just need more mattin.
Travis Nobert
Travis Enterprise
Come on down to Evolution Audio in Edmonton Alberta, and I can HOOK YOU UP.
i found that if your trying to make a box that isn't even close to square,and you lay more then 3 layers, the matt tends to try to slide or fall off. on my box i did about 3 layers, in some spots where there was a bubble i put a few extra layers, and when i tried to do that, it fell apart on me.i guess you could do it, if you let the first layer settle for a few min before applying the next layer, in which case i can see you laying 5-6 layers at once, and be done in a few hours.
Travis Nobert
Travis Enterprise
Come on down to Evolution Audio in Edmonton Alberta, and I can HOOK YOU UP.
After multiple layers of glass is laid, its easier to use a can of contact glue and spray it on the enclosure then lay the glass down so it wont slide
